Thinking about relocating a beloved tree on your property? It’s a significant undertaking, but with the right knowledge and preparation, it’s absolutely achievable. We understand the emotional attachment you might have to a mature tree, or perhaps you’re redesigning your landscape and a specific tree needs to find a new home. This guide will walk you through the entire process, from assessing your tree’s suitability for moving to the crucial aftercare that ensures its survival.
Moving a tree isn’t a task to be taken lightly. It requires careful planning, the right tools, and a good understanding of tree physiology. Our aim is to demystify the process, providing you with actionable steps and expert insights so you can confidently undertake this rewarding project. Let’s get your tree to its new spot, healthy and thriving!
Planning Your Tree Move: The Foundation of Success
Before you even think about digging, a thorough assessment and planning phase is paramount. Moving a tree is a delicate operation, and success hinges on meticulous preparation. We’ll cover everything you need to consider to give your arboreal friend the best chance of survival in its new location.
1. Is Your Tree a Good Candidate for Moving?
Not all trees are created equal when it comes to relocation. Several factors determine a tree’s suitability:
- Species: Some species are far more tolerant of transplant shock than others. Trees with extensive, fibrous root systems tend to fare better than those with deep taproots. Good candidates often include maples, oaks (smaller specimens), birches, and some fruit trees. Avoid moving very old, very large, or species known for their delicate root structures if possible.
- Size and Age: Younger, smaller trees are significantly easier and less risky to move than mature, large specimens. The larger the tree, the bigger the root ball you’ll need, and the more challenging the logistics become.
- Health: A healthy tree is much more likely to recover from the stress of being moved. Inspect your tree for any signs of disease, pests, or damage. If the tree is already struggling, moving it will likely be detrimental.
- Root System: The health and spread of the root system are critical. A tree that has been confined to a small pot for a long time might have circling roots, making it harder to establish a healthy root ball.
- Environmental Factors: Consider the soil conditions at both the original and the new locations. Are they similar? Will the new spot provide adequate sunlight, water, and drainage for the species?
2. Timing Is Everything: When to Move Your Tree
The best time to move a tree is during its dormant season. This typically means:
- Late Fall/Early Winter: After the leaves have dropped and before the ground freezes solid. The tree is not actively growing, so it can focus its energy on root recovery.
- Late Winter/Early Spring: Just before new growth begins. The ground is usually workable, and the tree can start establishing roots in its new location as the growing season approaches.
Avoid moving trees during the heat of summer or when they are in full bloom, as this significantly increases transplant shock and the risk of dehydration.
3. Assess the Root Ball Size
The root ball is the most crucial part of the tree to preserve. A general rule of thumb for estimating the root ball diameter is:
- For every inch of trunk caliper (diameter) measured 6 inches above the ground, plan for a root ball diameter of 10-12 inches.
For example, a tree with a 2-inch caliper trunk will ideally need a 20-24 inch diameter root ball. This can quickly become very large and heavy for mature trees.
4. Gather Your Tools and Supplies
Having the right equipment is non-negotiable for a safe and successful move. Depending on the size of the tree, you might need: (See Also: how to decorate a christmas tree)
- Shovels: A sharp spade for initial digging and a trenching shovel for creating a clean edge.
- Spading Fork: Useful for loosening soil and separating roots.
- Pruning Shears/Loppers/Pruning Saw: For trimming branches.
- Burlap: Large pieces of damp burlap to wrap the root ball.
- Twine/Rope: Strong twine or rope to secure the burlap.
- Wheelbarrow/Tarp: For moving soil and the root ball.
- Heavy-duty Gloves: For protection.
- Stakes and Ties: For supporting the tree after replanting.
- Measuring Tape: To gauge the root ball size.
- For larger trees: Tree spade (rental), heavy-duty dolly, or even a small backhoe or crane.
The Step-by-Step Process of Moving a Tree
Once your planning is complete and you have your tools ready, it’s time to execute the move. This process involves preparing the tree, digging it out, transporting it, and replanting it. Each step requires patience and care.
Step 1: Root Pruning (optional but Recommended for Larger Trees)
For trees that are larger than a few inches in caliper, root pruning a year in advance can significantly improve the success rate. This encourages the tree to grow new, fibrous feeder roots within the area you intend to dig.
- Mark the intended root ball size on the ground around the tree.
- Dig a trench around the marked circle, about 12-18 inches deep, severing the roots.
- Backfill the trench with compost or good quality soil.
- Water the tree regularly.
This process forces the tree to develop a denser, more compact root system within the future root ball, making it more self-sufficient when moved.
Step 2: Prepare the New Planting Site
While you’re preparing the tree for its move, ensure the new location is ready. Dig the planting hole at least twice as wide as the intended root ball and just as deep. This allows the roots to spread out easily into the loosened soil.
- Loosen the soil at the bottom and sides of the hole.
- Ensure good drainage. If the area is prone to waterlogging, consider amending the soil with compost or creating a slightly raised bed.
- Do not add fertilizer to the planting hole, as this can burn new roots.
Step 3: Prepare the Tree for Digging
Several preparatory steps help minimize damage to the tree and make the digging process smoother:
- Water the tree thoroughly a day or two before you plan to dig. This hydrates the roots and makes the soil easier to work with.
- Prune back some of the canopy. Removing about 20-30% of the foliage can help reduce water loss through transpiration, lessening the strain on the newly moved root system. Focus on thinning out dense areas rather than topping the tree.
- Tie up branches. Gently tie up lower branches with soft twine or cloth strips to keep them out of the way while you dig.
Step 4: Digging the Root Ball
This is the most physically demanding part. Accuracy is key to preserving as many roots as possible.
- Mark the root ball circumference clearly on the ground.
- Start digging a trench around the marked circle, working your way down. Aim to keep the trench as vertical as possible.
- Carefully undercut the root ball. As you dig deeper, begin to undercut the root ball, trying to keep it intact. Use a sharp spade or spading fork to sever roots cleanly.
- Check for taproots. If you encounter a thick taproot, you may need to cut it with a sharp saw.
- Assess the integrity of the root ball. Once it’s mostly undercut, gently try to push it aside to see if it holds together. If it crumbles, you may need to adjust your digging.
Step 5: Burlapping and Securing the Root Ball
This step is crucial for keeping the soil and roots together during transport.
- Place a large piece of damp burlap under one side of the root ball.
- Carefully tip the root ball onto the burlap, or slide it underneath.
- Wrap the burlap tightly around the root ball. Ensure it covers all sides and the bottom.
- Secure the burlap with strong twine or rope, crisscrossing it around the root ball to create a compact package. This prevents the soil from falling away and protects the roots. For very large root balls, you might need a wire basket for added support.
Step 6: Lifting and Transporting the Tree
This is where size dictates the method. For smaller trees, a wheelbarrow might suffice. For larger ones, you’ll need more robust equipment. (See Also: how to draw christmas tree)
- For small to medium trees: With the root ball secured in burlap, you can often tip the tree gently and use a wheelbarrow or a heavy-duty tarp to drag it to its new location. Be mindful of the weight!
- For larger trees: This is where professional help or specialized equipment becomes necessary. A tree spade can excavate the tree with its root ball intact. Alternatively, a crane or backhoe might be needed to lift the tree onto a trailer or flatbed truck for transport. Safety is paramount here. If you are unsure, hire professionals.
When transporting, secure the tree firmly to prevent shifting. Protect the trunk and branches from wind and sun exposure during transit.
Step 7: Replanting the Tree
Getting the tree into its new home requires precision.
- Carefully position the tree in the prepared hole. The top of the root ball should be level with or slightly above the surrounding soil surface. Never plant a tree too deep.
- Remove as much of the burlap as possible, especially from the top. If it’s tightly secured, you can cut away the top portion and sides, but leave the bottom to support the root ball. If you used a wire basket, you may need to cut away the top half.
- Backfill the hole with the original soil, gently tamping it down to eliminate air pockets. Avoid using too much amended soil, as this can discourage roots from growing into the native soil.
- Water thoroughly to settle the soil and ensure good root-to-soil contact.
Step 8: Post-Planting Care and Maintenance
The work isn’t over once the tree is in the ground. Proper aftercare is critical for recovery and long-term health.
- Watering: Water deeply and regularly, especially during the first year. The frequency will depend on rainfall and soil type, but aim to keep the soil consistently moist, not waterlogged.
- Mulching: Apply a 2-4 inch layer of organic mulch (wood chips, shredded bark) around the base of the tree, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk. Mulch helps retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.
- Staking: Stake the tree only if it’s in a very windy location or if the root ball is unstable. Remove stakes after one year, or as soon as the tree can stand on its own, to prevent girdling and allow for natural trunk movement.
- Pruning: Minimal pruning is needed immediately after transplanting. Only remove any broken or dead branches. Wait at least a year before undertaking any significant structural pruning.
- Fertilizing: Avoid fertilizing for at least a year. Once established, follow general fertilizing guidelines for your tree species if needed.
- Monitoring: Keep a close eye on the tree for signs of stress, disease, or pests. Early detection can make a significant difference.
Common Challenges and How to Overcome Them
Even with the best intentions, moving a tree can present hurdles. Being prepared for these will increase your chances of a smooth transition.
Transplant Shock
This is the most common issue. Symptoms include wilting, leaf drop, and reduced vigor. It’s the tree’s natural reaction to the stress of root disturbance. Proper watering, mulching, and minimizing canopy loss are the best defenses. Patience is key; it can take a season or two for a transplanted tree to fully recover and show new growth.
Root Ball Breakdown
If the root ball crumbles during digging or lifting, it means fewer roots are making the journey. This significantly increases the risk of transplant shock. Using burlap and securing it tightly is essential. For very large trees, professional equipment like a tree spade is almost mandatory to maintain root ball integrity.
Damage to Trunk or Branches
Accidental scrapes or breaks can occur during digging or transport. Carefully tie up branches and use protective wrapping (like burlap or tree wrap) on the trunk if necessary, especially if using machinery. Small wounds will heal, but significant damage can be a serious setback.
Incorrect Planting Depth
Planting too deep is a common mistake that can lead to root rot and suffocation. Always ensure the root flare (where the trunk widens at the base) is visible at or slightly above the soil line. If you’re unsure, it’s better to plant slightly too high than too low. (See Also: how many magic tree house books are there)
Pest and Disease Infestations
A stressed tree is more susceptible to pests and diseases. Monitor your tree closely and address any issues promptly. Healthy soil and proper watering are the first lines of defense.
When to Call the Professionals
While many smaller trees can be moved by determined DIYers, there comes a point where professional help is not just recommended, but necessary:
- Large, Mature Trees: The sheer weight and size of the root ball make these impossible for most individuals to move safely.
- Trees with Significant Value: If the tree is particularly rare, sentimental, or valuable, the risk of damage is too high to attempt it yourself.
- Difficult Access: If the tree is in a location with limited access for equipment or for moving it out, professionals have the specialized tools and experience to navigate these challenges.
- Lack of Equipment: If you don’t have access to essential tools like a tree spade, heavy-duty dollies, or a crane, it’s best to hire experts.
Professional arborists and tree moving services have the expertise, specialized equipment (like tree spades, cranes, and heavy-duty trucks), and insurance to handle these complex moves safely and efficiently. They can also offer advice on the best species for relocation and the optimal timing.
Table: Tree Moving Equipment Comparison
| Equipment | Best For | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shovels/Spades/Forks | Small to medium trees (up to 2-3″ caliper) | Inexpensive, readily available | Labor-intensive, limited by tree size, root ball may break |
| Wheelbarrow/Tarp | Small trees, after root ball is dug | Easy to use for small loads | Only for very small trees, risk of damage to root ball |
| Tree Spade (Rental) | Medium to large trees (3″ – 10″ caliper) | Excavates with root ball intact, efficient | Expensive rental, requires specialized vehicle for transport |
| Crane/Backhoe | Very large trees, difficult access | Lifts heavy loads, can maneuver in tight spaces | Very expensive, requires skilled operators, potential for damage if not handled carefully |
Protecting Your Tree’s Future
Beyond the immediate replanting, think long-term. Consider the mature size of the tree and its needs in its new environment. Proper planning now will prevent future problems and ensure your tree thrives for years to come. Itβs an investment in your landscape and the environment.
Conclusion
Moving a tree is a rewarding endeavor that, when approached with careful planning and execution, can be highly successful. By understanding your tree’s suitability, choosing the right time, preparing diligently, and providing meticulous aftercare, you can give your green friend a second chance at life in a new spot. Remember, patience and gentle handling are your greatest allies throughout this process.
Recommended Products
No products found.